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With all due respect, there is zero evidence or documentation that:
1.) The download is contingent on driving the car within 10 days of when the OTA email notification is sent,
2.) One must drive the car continuously for 20 minutes to get the download.
3.) The download is instantly available on email notification of OTA and everyone must get in their car and start driving.
1. I never said you had to drive the car and get it within 10 days. I assume you were trying to quote a different thread in which I wrote
“I wonder how (how was a typo) if the 10 day window means I have Tom (meant to be to) drive enough within the 10 days or I forgo the update. “
Notice this is a question not a statement. Even your all due respect does not change it from a question to a statement.
2. Never said anything about driving for 20 minutes. Never said anything about it having to be continuous.
3. Never said every one should drive immediately. I have health problems which means I cannot always drive the car. I had a window of being able to drive it and clean it tonight so I did. Might be weeks before I can drive it again so I took it.

One again I am stumped as to where you are coming from Homer.
 
Clearly the intent and interpretation of the post are divergent. The intent was to clarify a possible inference that the OTA update could be advanced by immediately driving the car. Also, there have been posts that the OTA might have been missed if it wasn't downloaded within the 10 day notification window.

There is a surprising lack of information from Volvo about how long the OTA is available and under what conditions. It is not clear how it is initiated and for what triggers the data stream.

If my comment was surmised as anything other than an attempt to add insight into the OTA process, that was due to a lack of specificity on my part. I am sorry for the lack of clarity. Enjoy the ride and I wish you well.
 
Clearly the intent and interpretation of the post are divergent. The intent was to clarify a possible inference that the OTA update could be advanced by immediately driving the car. Also, there have been posts that the OTA might have been missed if it wasn't downloaded within the 10 day notification window.

There is a surprising lack of information from Volvo about how long the OTA is available and under what conditions. It is not clear how it is initiated and for what triggers the data stream.

If my comment was surmised as anything other than an attempt to add insight into the OTA process, that was due to a lack of specificity on my part. I am sorry for the lack of clarity. Enjoy the ride and I wish you well.
Sorry if I interpreted your post wrong. The down sides of words on a page is a lack of non verbal communication. Peoples frustrations towards Volvo can easily feel like frustration at a person.

I am very positive which can be annoying. Got to have some area in life to try and see the positive when the country is burning, drowning and diseased all at the same time:). I think my brain has chosen the car to be hopeful about. Plus I have not had any problems with it.

Good luck and enjoy the swooshing :)
 
Clearly the intent and interpretation of the post are divergent. The intent was to clarify a possible inference that the OTA update could be advanced by immediately driving the car. Also, there have been posts that the OTA might have been missed if it wasn't downloaded within the 10 day notification window.

There is a surprising lack of information from Volvo about how long the OTA is available and under what conditions. It is not clear how it is initiated and for what triggers the data stream.

If my comment was surmised as anything other than an attempt to add insight into the OTA process, that was due to a lack of specificity on my part. I am sorry for the lack of clarity. Enjoy the ride and I wish you well.
well ok then
 
OK, did my own investigation..kinda. I said earlier that what happens to He Keith doesn`t make sense, and it does now.
Image

This is what the rear breaks should look like. #7 is the actuator that pushes with own cylinder the break caliper cylinder. #8 is the O-ring that goes between. It simulates like the breaks are pressed. The only difference in that case is that the actuator is pushing perhaps with greater force and for longer time. Previous design (2010 - 2015 XC60) was actuator that used pin which goes into a groove on the hub (it doesn`t really matters) and was not in any contact with the caliper. That is why I could not explain it. I was thinking they are still using the old design. Bottom line is - even with changing the break pad material it must be done very smart. The metallic break pad does not rust - it is the rust from the rotor that fuse with the break pad material. In my opinion do not use one pedal drive all the time.
I had similar problem on my parking brakes on one of the XC90 (I have 2). After driving it in the winter I parked in the garage with engaged parking brake for 4-5 weeks. The driver side parking break did not release and it was fused good enough to use lots of gas and than laud clunk. Everything was fine after just the driver side parking break ceased to exist. Latter when I was replacing it I use hammer and all available vocabulary to release the bloody rotor. I know my explanation will not help but this is what I think. It is a hard problem to solve.
 
I do not use 1PD at all because the wife hates it. The problem can happen using normal brakes. It appears any moisture trapped between pads and rotors can trigger this once car sits a decent amount of time. While the rear pads may not rust, they are metallic and that metallic content in contact with the rotors with moisture presentable an electrochemical process begins, the metallic in the pads has to be reacting with the rotors.

most of this article is over my head, but I think it applies.


“A very common cause of corrosion is having two dissimilar metals in contact”
 
I am pretty sure that whether you use 1pd or not the amount of deceleration before breaks are applied is the same. So even if you are avoiding 1pd unless you are heavy on the breaks you are probably mainly regenerative.
 
I noticed when my brakes were grinding that the brakes do seem to get engaged even under mild braking, probably not much by my guess to help prevent oxidation. I am also comfortable that I would likely not see the issue in rain as my driveway is a very steep (20+ foot drop in less than 50 ft) rapid decline and thus the brakes are heavily engaged as I crawl down my driveway and would likely be clearly the rotors/pads of moisture. 6 days and counting until I trigger a buy back.
 
Service Manager called. All they did was pads and rotors again, not even calipers. What a joke. Volvo refuses to try anything other than their pads and says the car is too heavy for organic pads? Huh, it is regen most of the effort. Unfortunately it is only 23 days out of service, so looks like I need to wait on the next failure. The say they have seen the issue on several cars, but none multiple times, lucky me. They asked if I was spraying anything on the wheels to cause the problem, and I said no, I wipe stuff on the outside. Looks like I may wind up getting brakes and rotors every few weeks/months.
 
He Keith, when you get the car back go to some empty street and accelerate up to 40-50 miles and break hard. Do this 2-3 times. If you want and have time. It helps new breaks to settle bit better. I would say to try Akebono ceramic pads but anyway get your car back and drive it. Lets hope it will never happen again to anybody anywhere.
 
No info as to why. They are asking a lot of question on how I wash the car, did I spray anything on the wheels that may have oxidized the rotors. I told them I have been careful to not get any chemicals into the pads/rotors. Reminded him I have been washing my cars this way for over 29 years with no issues until the P8 and that I do same procedure on her T5. I would bet if I engaged her parking brake I bet she would have same issue. It is clearly parking wet brakes and letting car sit for a few days. He did say they had issues with XC90 a few years back and it took Volvo a few years to fix it.
 
How I wash my car? I am going to a car wash. WTF?
Well it is good to know. Thank you for the info.
Off topic: I still do not know if I am getting my car. It is stuck in Halifax for a month already. I am starting to think that Volvo is doing this deliberately to get rid of the old inventory. Volvo Canada website is still not updated. My problem is that if I loose $6000 incentives (deadline end of October) I will walk away. It is seems very possible. What a shame...
 
I think they want to make sure I am not using something that reacts with the rotors. I will do this as a test, I am going to switch to another wheel cleaner to be safe, but again I use this stuff on my wife’s car. They both always get washed at some time.
 
Ashes car this week. And yes I spray that nasty toxic chemical stuff right in the wheels


You see it react. It’s so nasty I wear a kn95 while i do it. Rinsed the wheels getting all in side with the pressure hose. Washed the rest of the car. Wet polished. Then dried wheels and out the tire gel on (makeup for my car. ). Then drove Home. Did the 40mph P breaking 4 times. Got home and out it away for a day.

I do this every time. And never had any problems. But I do do the breaking bit To get the breaks hot. Someone here suggested the p method as it thresholds right under abs. So maximum breaking without it stuttering.

This was not aimed at getting at you Keith. More a comment that I do use the nasty stuff on and in my wheels. I do rinse it very ocdly but still if it ever goes wrong I guess I will be told Margo will need to have dirty wheels :(
 
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