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Lifting the car using a trolley jack

24K views 52 replies 13 participants last post by  cav8tor  
#1 ·
Did somebody use a trolley jack on the car?
Did you use any rubber pads like on Tesla?
What did you use to lift the car to mount the winter tires?

Thank you.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Did you end up jacking up the car? I want to use a floor jack to change to winter wheels but I’m unsure about which jacking points to use. I know there the cut out sin the plastic exposing the frame (by the little triangles in the trim) but there also appear to be plastic mounting points slightly further inward.
That is exactly my problem. I asked the dealership but there is nothing listed under accessories like rubber pad or bracket to lift the car. I am picking up my winter tires today and will use the scissor jack that came with the car. There is perpendicular steel plate that sticks a little. They are close to the front and back tires. If you cannot find them will snap you a picture.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Alright. That pad seems will do the job but only after some slight cutout mods I am afraid. Will order one. Hope will fit without any modifications but doubt it...
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Perhaps aluminum slotted adapters will be promising. At the first glance the problem I am seeing is that none of the jack adapters are rated for maximum lb. We must be very careful.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·

Ordered that one Jack Pad Medium Size Adapter. It says the pad has 3-4 tons of load bearing. Will take time to be delivered. Once it is here will make some pictures. I believe it is the same one linked in one of the above posts.
Disclosure: I need to lift the car to change the tires. I am not using that pad to go under the car, there is nothing to work on it under...not anymore, it is an EV. If you need to go under the car use ramps.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Be careful, there are reviews which talk about cracking. The 3-4 ton load bearing specification might not account for sharp pinch welds. The specification unit might be in tons per square inch.
Thank you. Careful I am. There is really nothing else out on the market within reasonable price range. I will try that and will let you know. Honestly I do not think it will do the job as prescribed. 1.2 tons should be bearable for the pad but giving the material and the way it is made I think it fail miserable after 2-4 times lifting the car. Shall see that we must. Could be a nice surprise product from a garage in China...😐
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Back again for the long weekend. Tried to solve the lifting problem in most Canadian way possible - hockey puck. We use them for everything - playing, hunting, self defense and lifting volvos of course.

Here are the lifting point:
FRONT passenger site:
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The idea is to make the puck slotted with hack saw:
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The slot doesn`t need to be any deep.
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And the moment of truth.
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As you can see it does not work. The steel cut the puck and went deeper. The car is very heavy and urethane rubber will not work at all.


The deformation is visible and the slot that I cut before now is more than half way through. NOT GOOD and not an option.
Here is the second hockey puck uncut. It is very good demonstration how heavy the car is.
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Bottom line is: rubber adapters will not work on our cars. Must be heavy duty aluminum or steel adapter like the one that was suggested by Greg S.

Do not waist your time and money with rubber pads. The hockey puck is made from the same material - urethane. Still waiting for the one I ordered but not optimistic.

To be continued.



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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Interesting! LOL re: Canada/hockey puck. I think I’ve heard of people using them as engine mounts in the Volvo 240. You’d think they would survive anything. In AUS the car doesn’t even come with a scissor jack! I worked for GM/Holden and we had lots or requirements for jacking points to make sure it was safe to lift and didn’t damage the car. Would be interesting to see how the original scissor jack interfaces to that flange on the body...does the full weight of the car rest on the flange, and the notch in the scissor jack is just to keep it centred on the flange, or is the scissor jack designed with a deep enough notch that the jack head rests on the horizontal part of the body inboard and outboard of the flange. Sounds like the aluminium disks may be the way to go. Could you put a piece of plywood cut to the round shape of your floor jack and use that to contact the bottom of he body flange? Really depends on whether the flange is designed to take the load, or it’s the horizontal surfaces inboard and outboard that take the load. Hmm...
Plywood will not work. That flange is too narrow and will cut it.. Not sure why they did it like that. The only exposed metal is that metal edge, everything else is covered with plastic trim. Will use car`s scissor jack and post some more pics.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
OK, so looking at that it’s the flange that takes all the load. Any reason you can’t just use your floor jack under the flange, or are you worried that it’s going to have 2 point loads at the front and rear of the circular floor jack lifting plate?
That and slipping off. I have another idea now after seeing the scissor jack. By the way I put the winter tires and used the trolley jack with hockey puck and small angaled aluminum profile to even the load. It worked but it is not that I will recommend. I was too lazy to spin the scissor jack handle up and down and came out with that solution.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I have to bring this old topic back. Soon we have to switch the tires.
Rubber pad
The pad above is horrible. Do not waste your money and time. Proved that our cars are very heavy nothing 'soft' will work. The pad must be aluminum or other type of metal. Nothing else. See the pictures below. It is all deformed.
Image

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Discussion starter · #48 ·
I tried a few jack pads, including polyurethane and rubber ones. The problem with the rubber ones is that they deform a lot under pressure. Both types seem to put pressure on the surrounding trim where the exposed pinch welds are. I haven't taken off the trim around the pinch welds but it seems like there is big gap before there is any structure.

The best solution I could find is this metal one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B081ZZBH26/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1. This pad includes a couple of built-in magnets and fits very easy at the rear jack points. In the front, I pried the trim facing out a bit to slide the pad fully around the exposed pinch weld.

I have included a few pictures for the sake of comparison. As I mentioned before, my current understanding (based on the design of the included scissor jack) is that the P8 needs to be lifted by the exposed pinch welds (and have successfully done so with a floor jack that had protective rubber).
Very nice. Metal is the answer.
I was worried that this particular pad has cut that is too deep and the rail is not going to reach the bottom and it will rest on the sides of the pad. It seems I was wrong which is great. Will order that one. Thank you for sharing.