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Went to dealer after work to just show up (tired of literally no one calling for uodate even after leaving messages - GREAT customer service there after ur new car has been sitting there since last Thursday - ok I’m done ranting)- Amway got there, the the parts (Pads and Rotors) did arrive later afternoon - and they showed me these pics…

Talk about pads totally sticking to the rotors !!! It was explained thatprobably after rain and moisture build up etc, the pads just stuck to the rotors. The loud thud and car squatting before it finally reversed was when the rotors finally moved and pads were “yanked” hence all the jagged craters - it’s supposed to be a smooth surface all around.
The Service Manager bad the guts to ask me to wait another 2 days to pick up on Thursday Becasue he wasted too “make sure” it was ok after new parts installed.
I told him it’s been left almost a week and it’s STILL not prioritized to be fixed ? That they have all afternoon today and all day tomorrow - CMon! 3 week old new car, then at dealer 1 week and ur still telling me to wait another 2 days ?
I was like “ I’m sorry but r u kidding me right now ?????” I questioned why at this point my car waiting in line for a week and still not being prioritized???
After the Seevice Mgr sees fumes coming out of my head he’s like “ok …ok….when would I like to lick it up tomorrow ?” I said “I’ll give you All day Tomorrow and come right before you close to pick it up. But I’m done trying to get hold of someone to tell me stats of my new car - I’m NOT gonna deal with this BS another 48 hours”
So let’s see if they will get it done. If not I’m gonna make a scene !!!! Ridiculous !!!!
873
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Yay for getting them to look after you. Sad you had to do it that way.

Not driven the car for 3 days and I put it away wet. Eeeps. Will be anxiously driving it later.
 

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Yay for getting them to look after you. Sad you had to do it that way.

Not driven the car for 3 days and I put it away wet. Eeeps. Will be anxiously driving it later.
Oowww do tell ! That was me - driving in rain for 2 days then no driving 3 days. Hard to believe it goes bad that quickly simply cannot be.
People drive in rain and snow so it shouldn’t be acting up that way.
but all these experiences are keeping everyone more aware
 

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Alas when you out an ice car to bed it’s breaks are normally very very hot and ours are cold and wet :( something really does need to change. Maybe a redesign of break material.

I am also worrying/wondering what is the best thing to do when the breaks are grinding so we do not get the damage yours have. I assume they come from the super stick event but are they getting damaged every time they stick. . .
 

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Alas when you out an ice car to bed it’s breaks are normally very very hot and ours are cold and wet :( something really does need to change. Maybe a redesign of break material.

I am also worrying/wondering what is the best thing to do when the breaks are grinding so we do not get the damage yours have. I assume they come from the super stick event but are they getting damaged every time they stick. . .
The unsettling part is it’s not even a continuous grinding sound. It’s more of a “thud-thud-thudding” sound as the wheel turns. It’s as if something is stuck to rotor-wheel that each time it spins it makes the sound. So the faster you go the frequency of the thudding increases. A buddy of mine witnessed it and he climbed underneath the car to look to make sure nothing physical got caught underneath.
So needless to say if it acts up again, back it goes to the Dealer.
 

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This does not bode well for the winter. Oh well just have to drive it every day which was the plan :) that said I also did not plan to not drive for 3 days. Life happens :( be nice if the car was not a surface welded block when we come back to it :)
 

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O
This does not bode well for the winter. Oh well just have to drive it every day which was the plan :) that said I also did not plan to not drive for 3 days. Life happens :( be nice if the car was not a surface welded block when we come back to it :)
Its GOT to be just a random occurrence on mine …or a very very few handful of owners to consider them as “exceptions”. Otherwise Volvo should consider announcing a Recall.
 

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O

Its GOT to be just a random occurrence on mine …or a very very few handful of owners to consider them as “exceptions”. Otherwise Volvo should consider announcing a Recall.
I agree especially as it was first released in Sweden and Europe not exactly a warm and dry place.

I wonder if there could be a warming / drying system for when you leave your breaks wet.
 

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I agree especially as it was first released in Sweden and Europe not exactly a warm and dry place.

I wonder if there could be a warming / drying system for when you leave your breaks wet.
Great point. It’s commonly wet and cold there ….hhmm interesting….OR it was built for European “friendly weather” and cannot handle TX weather where temperature can swing by 50 degrees on same day easily ….super wet snd dry same day, super cold and hot day same day….humidity and moiusture build up……HhhMmmm…..
 

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Great point. It’s commonly wet and cold there ….hhmm interesting….OR it was built for European “friendly weather” and cannot handle TX weather where temperature can swing by 50 degrees on same day easily ….super wet snd dry same day, super cold and hot day same day….humidity and moiusture build up……HhhMmmm…..
Tx vs Volvo!!! I wonder how they are fairing in Hawaii. Hot sweltering and salty by the sea …

Talking of sea are you perchance near the salty rust inducing ocean ?
 

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Tx vs Volvo!!! I wonder how they are fairing in Hawaii. Hot sweltering and salty by the sea …

Talking of sea are you perchance near the salty rust inducing ocean ?
Even Hawaii’s weather is not that hush however, to your point….the salt will totally reduce the overall life span of any car assuming exposure to it.
I’m smack in the middle of Texas, few miles away from DFW airport. So you can see how I totally enjoy driving the car on fast multiple wide lanes. There are also several huge Amazon Fulfillment centers with a mile of 18 wheelers parked easily , and zooming in and out …lots of funds poured into maintenance of roads within that area.

also, temperature here has been high 90s ….so YES I need the car (which had just been tinted all over) ANzd hoping to precool it before I hopped in after work.
 

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Interesting article that dovetails with thoughts above about the reason why drum brakes might be a better idea for EV's
Good article, thanks! I'm a software engineer, not a mechanical engineer, but I've been pondering this rusty-brake issue a fair bit lately. The drum-brake approach makes a lot of sense.

If the rears are drums with parking brakes, and the front are disks and don't engage with "P" (park) mode, then we shouldn't have issues with pads/rotors fusing together with rust.
 

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Drums might work in the future if they can get the Same performance but for now disc = faster breaking = safety.

Another reason Evs have 4 discs for better performance is the increased weight of the car. More weight means more breaking needed to get the same stopping distance of a lighter vehicle.

Apart from the emergency stopping situations sounds like drums would win. But I for one want every inch of reduced stopping distance I can get when the world goes wrong.
 

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About 80% of the stopping power comes from front brakes anyway, so drums in the back aren't that much of a compromise. Again, software guy here, but... it makes sense to me.
 

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There is a reason they went to 4 discs bs 2 discs 2 drums for the EVs and I assume they were aiming to optimize stopping distance.

Also Weight distribution in an ev is different than an ice.

Hence our power distribution is 50/50 vs ice solutions that do a front bias in awd. ( it could also be argued that our power distribution is 50/50 as that is the easiest way to do it with symmetrical electric motors. Some cars do bigger in the rear I read)

During deceleration you do get a weight shift that adds more weight as the car rocks forward to the front but I doubt breaking is actually 80:20 on our car. Though I have a degree in physics I also went software engineer professionally so there could well be some mechanical engineering I am missing here.

All in all though I trust that Volvo chose this break configuration to minimize breaking distance. The question remains whether there is some quality control issue causing some breaks to fail faster (stick more, surface weld more) or whether the whole system just does not work well in the wet real world day to day use and they did not plan for this.
 

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Well 5 weeks after having my pads and rotors it has happened again. They were seized pretty bad as the clunk was loud and the car jerked. Rolling without applying brakes initially had a grinding/rubbing noise then it went to only when brakes were applied. This was still happening after my 12 mile drive to work. Reaching out to Volvo and dealer to schedule repair. I assume pads/rotors again. My dashcam was not fully running for the clunk, but has the noise when driving.
 

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Sorry to hear that.
Did you do anything different car wise last night? Wash it? Was it raining? I assume it is under cover. Are you near the sea? And joking is there a dog that likes to pee on your wheel?

It is strange that it has happened twice to your car. This does not seem like it would be something they would vary from car to car. It would be nice to know what is directly causing it so we could avoid doing the same and perhaps Volvo could fix the problem.

Good luck with the dealership. I hope they get it fixed ASAP.
 

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I washed the car last weekend, but while I did not drive it I rolled it back and forth in driveway to apply the brakes rather hard to dry them. I have owned over 20 cars and none of them have had a seized brake or grinding like this. Some cars you would hear the rust grinding off after they sat after a rain or wash, but nothing like this.
 
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