[Homer]

These cars are heavy.
This is the one I use and it does not deform.

A little pricier, but it will last and take the weight.

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[Homer]

I haven't tried mine yet. The puck's slot is too deep to allow the car to be lifted from the pinch weld. I was thinking of examining the situation further and maybe sawing a little off the top of the puck to make the slot shallower. I spoke with a custom alignment shop when I had to replace one rear tire; they said they usually lift cars by their suspension, but if necessary they just remove the plastic trim pieces surrounding the factory lift points. I looked under my car and one trim piece comes off with just a few trim screws. Not sure about the other plastic trim piece.

The car should not be supported by the pinch weld. The weld should fit entirely in the slot with no contact.

The side of the pucks support the weight of the car.

The deep slot is better.

 

[Homer]

I thought so too, but when I held one of the pucks against the car, it was pressing on the unsupported plastic trim pieces, not on anything metal. Maybe they'd work well with the trim removed?

There appears to be some confusion on this piece of plastic and the jack points.

The plastic is very thin and actually compresses/deforms when jacking the car up. It does not need to be removed.

Here is a picture using the jack puck with the deep slot at the jack point. You can see the pinch weld fits in the deep slot. The puck compresses a little bit and fits perfectly onto the body support with the plastic trim left intact.

 

[Homer]

So you did use the puck with the jack? Was the plastic ok afterwards?

The gray puck is sitting in the hydraulic jack support.

After jacking up the car, the undersurface is without any issues.

The plastic cover only deforms about 1/4 inch. It then hits the sturdy body support.

No cracks or deformation of any part.

 

[Homer]

A closer view. The plastic simply compresses to the framework.