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Anyone with a Wallbox notice their schedule shifted back and hour with the daylight savings time change? I noticed it today which means I paid for some of my charging this month. I opened a support ticket.
Wallbox got back to me, this is a bug and they are working on it. So for now at time change you schedule delete your schedule and recreate it. Is it me or is software QA horrible in the last few years. OTA has made companies lazy with testing.


I contacted Wallbox support and apparently I had the Can Bus wiring in the wrong slots, which was causing it to lose connection over time. It worked, so I assumed I had it set up correctly. Ensure you have the primary unit set in terminals 1 and 4 (1 is on the far left and 4 on the far right in the left plug) and the secondary unit set in 1 and 3. I did that and it's currently connected and Support is supposed to be running logs on their end. Hopefully that's all the issue was and I will be good to go after this.....if that's the case, user setup error on my part. However if it keeps acting up, then time to look into some other things.
Seems odd it would work art all if the wiring is not correct.
 

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Thanks for the info Rousie13. The impression I got from the manual was both 1 and 2 were electrically connected as well as 3 and 4. But I'm game to try it. I had both primary and secondary connected to 1 and 4. I changed secondary to 2 and 3 now. As you said, it seems to work fine with that setup. Time will tell if it solves the issue.

Thanks again for doing diligence with Wallbox support.
 

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Thanks for the info Rousie13. The impression I got from the manual was both 1 and 2 were electrically connected as well as 3 and 4. But I'm game to try it. I had both primary and secondary connected to 1 and 4. I changed secondary to 2 and 3 now. As you said, it seems to work fine with that setup. Time will tell if it solves the issue.

Thanks again for doing diligence with Wallbox support.
Same here….I had both of mine set to 2 and 4. They told me to change it, so I did what they said. They told me to report back if it drops again, but fingers crossed all is good now though.
 

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I had the same thing happen to my wallbox with the time change. Fortunately I picked up on it after a couple days. Hope they can get their programming team on it.
 

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Amazon has the Wallbox with a $75 coupons, not a bad deal for a great EVSE


I have been very happy with mine and ordered a second to do power sharing with the one I have.
 

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Amazon has the Wallbox with a $75 coupons, not a bad deal for a great EVSE


I have been very happy with mine and ordered a second to do power sharing with the one I have.
Good prices and the “used” ones are good prices as well. My biggest complaint is how stiff the cable is compared to the ChargePoint.
 

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Never tried my ChargePoint, sold on EBay as soon as I go to. I have the cable coiled right next to car so I never really uncoil any. The appeal to me of the Wallbox was affordable and power sharing.


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Update: After switching the wires around per instructions above, my secondary Wallbox was still loosing connection to primary. I would even go so far to say, it seemed to be dropping faster than before. I decided to redo it again, this time I decided to follow page 8 of the instructions (link) where primary was 1 and 3 and secondary was 2 and 4. I personally don't believe there is much of a difference though. What I am starting to think is maybe it's more to do with wire gauge and how tightly the connection is. Hence, I decided to use 2 wires per connection of the cat 5e cable and this time ensure I got the tightest "bite" I could based on the limitations of that connector. Picture below. It's working fine now ... time will tell if it stays that way.

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Never tried my ChargePoint, sold on EBay as soon as I go to. I have the cable coiled right next to car so I never really uncoil any. The appeal to me of the Wallbox was affordable and power sharing.
The power sharing is also the reason I went from ChargePoint to Wallbox.

The Wallbox cable gets stiff as it gets colder out in comparison to the ChargePoint cable staying very flexible. We also back both of our vehicles in to limit how much unwinding we have to do.
 

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Update: After switching the wires around per instructions above, my secondary Wallbox was still loosing connection to primary. I would even go so far to say, it seemed to be dropping faster than before. I decided to redo it again, this time I decided to follow page 8 of the instructions (link) where primary was 1 and 3 and secondary was 2 and 4. I personally don't believe there is much of a difference though. What I am starting to think is maybe it's more to do with wire gauge and how tightly the connection is. Hence, I decided to use 2 wires per connection of the cat 5e cable and this time ensure I got the tightest "bite" I could based on the limitations of that connector. Picture below. It's working fine now ... time will tell if it stays that way.
That’s odd. Knock on wood mine has been good since I redid the connection to how Wallbox support recommended…..hoping it stays that way. I had used Cat6 instead of Cat5, since I had Cat6 available and not Cat5…..I’m sure it doesn’t matter though.

I would contact Wallbox support and let them know about your issue.
 

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I guess I spoke too soon. Mine dropped connection again today. @CaymanR how has yours been since you doubled the wires? I sent an email to Wallbox again. Either this is a software issue or an issue with one of my units.
 

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Still working ok. My original setup would be good for several days. Hence not ready to declare victory yet but does seem better than the previous change.

To give a bit more detail on the "double wire", I made sure to put a tight twist on it and then fold in half to give more "bite". Pics below. I also made sure to bottom it out when pushing it into the connector. Your Cat6 wire is slightly thicker than my Cat5 (23awg vs 24) putting you are slightly ahead of me in that regard.
 

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I hope to get my second one set up next weekend. I am dropping in a subpanel with each on its own leg, but if they were both pulling 40A it would trip the breaker. This will allow me to run the. Independent if the power sharing thing does not work as long as both are not hooked up at same time.
 

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Still working ok. My original setup would be good for several days. Hence not ready to declare victory yet but does seem better than the previous change.

To give a bit more detail on the "double wire", I made sure to put a tight twist on it and then fold in half to give more "bite". Pics below. I also made sure to bottom it out when pushing it into the connector. Your Cat6 wire is slightly thicker than my Cat5 (23awg vs 24) putting you are slightly ahead of me in that regard.
I might give that a try because this is pretty annoying. I have emails customer support and I mentioned I spoke with someone else that is having the same exact issue as me. I'm wondering if this is a hardware or software issue.
 

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I hope to get my second one set up next weekend. I am dropping in a subpanel with each on its own leg, but if they were both pulling 40A it would trip the breaker. This will allow me to run the. Independent if the power sharing thing does not work as long as both are not hooked up at same time.
The Wallbox units are like the **** XC40....need to reboot them every few days. I'm hoping Wallbox can figure out if this is a hardware or software issue that is causing it to drop the connection.

Speaking of the XC40....something was awake on that thing today and continuously pulling ~.25-.5kw, but as soon as I locked the car with the key fob, then it dropped to 0.00kw from the EVSE.
 

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So far I have not had to reboot mine at all. I am being causation on the subpanel and leaving the 50 am- breaker that goes to the outlet there to be the breaker for the sub panel. I will then ru. The outlet to a breaker in the panel. I will then hardwire the second wall box to a second 50 amp breaker in the panel. I will still run wires to support power sharing, but if it acts up I will run them independently. The panel I got is a 100 amp load center (no main breaker in the panel) as it is in the same garage as my main panel. If I want later on I can replace the 6/3 going to the sub and make it a legit 100 amp panel and run both Wallbox at full power.
 
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So far I have not had to reboot mine at all. I am being causation on the subpanel and leaving the 50 am- breaker that goes to the outlet there to be the breaker for the sub panel. I will then ru. The outlet to a breaker in the panel. I will then hardwire the second wall box to a second 50 amp breaker in the panel. I will still run wires to support power sharing, but if it acts up I will run them independently. The panel I got is a 100 amp load center (no main breaker in the panel) as it is in the same garage as my main panel. If I want later on I can replace the 6/3 going to the sub and make it a legit 100 amp panel and run both Wallbox at full power.
Sounds like a good plan. I have my main 6 gauge feed coming into a junction box where I used insulated multi-connectors to branch off to the hardwired lines for each Wallbox. If I had to do over again, I would have just had a sub panel installed instead of the 50A outlet when they ran the main line during our basement remodel.
 

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I spoke with Wallbox again today and confirmed the resistance of the Can Bus lines were within tolerance on my setup, so it doesn’t appear to be due to any wiring issues. They have sent my resistance measurements and the rest of the information to the engineering time for them to determine root cause…..hardware or software related. So I guess until this gets fixed I’ll be flipping the breaker every few days to reboot the units. I’m hoping they come up with a fix soon.

Edit: Just received an email saying my case has been escalated to the department in charge and I should have an answer within 7 business days. I can live with that.
 

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Ok, part one done, sub panel in and set up, next week will wire up second outlet for other Wallbox. I will wire the Wallboxes together for power sharing, but if they act up will go back to isolated and just never run them at same time. Each Wallbox will be in a 40amps breaker and the subpanel is on a 40amps breaker.


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