[Greg S]

I’d say, hang in there. Don’t take it back just yet (especially since they don’t seem to know what the **** is going on). For me things “stabilized” after a while. Right now (2 weeks in) everything is working fine, except the On Call button turns off at times (and then it comes back).

The greyed out 6 amps doesn’t actually limit the charging at 6 amps, it’ll still take all a L2 charger can give, and 12 amps on an L1.

So basically, the important systems are working, and the software part of things is still not perfect but getting there.

When mine was greyed out 6 amps, it DID actually limit the charge to 6 amps...so I guess it depends on the situation. Fortunately it only happened once and haven’t had issues with greyed-out 6A since we got V1.8.1 at the dealer about a month ago. I did have the issue where I charged to 90% one day, then next day I set limit to 80% and started charging and the centre screen said 80% limit and the driver’s display said 90% limit, so not sure what’s going on there. I tried stopping the charge, re-setting the charge limit to 80%, and plugging in again and starting charging, but driver’s display still said 90%. I manually stopped it at 77% then next time I went to charge it was all synched at 80% limit. Had something similar or same happen on pre-V1.7 software too, so hmm, still an odd quirk.

 

[pcomazzi]

Presumably they mean to temporarily disable the car's data connectivity in the center console Settings:

Connectivity > Vehicle SIM Data (On/Off)

Correct, sorry i though most knew where the SIM setting is. I've tried just turning the SIM on and off and it doesn't work. I have to turn it off, reboot (holding home button down for 20 sec), then after reboot, turn SIM back on. Then it works again. I do own a '21, but the hold the defrost button has never worked for me.

 

[santellavision]

When mine was greyed out 6 amps, it DID actually limit the charge to 6 amps...

I believe we figured this out on another thread. What seems to happen is, the car remembers your last Amp charging setting. If you had it set to 48 amps, it still allows 48 amps even though the screen is grayed-out at 6amps.

In my case, I was on a weekend trip to the mountains and staying at a cabin. I changed the car to 15amps to trickle 120v charge it from a standard wall outlet at the cabin. The LTE communications went out during the trip and grayed out the amps. The car charging rate was locked in at the 15amps. So, if you have it set normally at 48amps for your home Level 2 charger, it should stay at 48.

 

[arteitle]

I believe we figured this out on another thread. What seems to happen is, the car remembers your last Amp charging setting. If you had it set to 48 amps, it still allows 48 amps even though the screen is grayed-out at 6amps.

In my case, I was on a weekend trip to the mountains and staying at a cabin. I changed the car to 15amps to trickle 120v charge it from a standard wall outlet at the cabin. The LTE communications went out during the trip and grayed out the amps. The car charging rate was locked in at the 15amps. So, if you have it set normally at 48amps for your home Level 2 charger, it should stay at 48.

My understanding is that the car will automatically limit current to around 12 A if charging from 120 V, so you shouldn't need to change the setting when you're level 1 charging.

 

[improvius]

My understanding is that the car will automatically limit current to around 12 A if charging from 120 V, so you shouldn't need to change the setting when you're level 1 charging.

What is the actual use case for changing this setting? Wouldn't most people set it for the max, and just let it automatically get stepped down when necessary?

 

[arteitle]

What is the actual use case for changing this setting? Wouldn't most people set it for the max, and just let it automatically get stepped down when necessary?

I think it'd only be needed if you're using a portable EVSE like the one that comes with the car in the U.S. and plugging its NEMA 14-50 plug into an outlet not capable of supplying 40 amps continuously, either because it has a smaller circuit breaker than 50 A, or you're using an adapter to plug it into a lower-current outlet like a 6-30. Normally an installed EVSE will be configured to correctly report its maximum current and the car will abide by this.

 

[BainbridgeIsland]

What is the actual use case for changing this setting? Wouldn't most people set it for the max, and just let it automatically get stepped down when necessary?

Not common but in some cases your car might request more current than your circuit breaker can handle. The car of course has no way of knowing what size circuit breaker you have. So this setting lets you manually limit the car’s power requests to a safe level.

 

[Baconriffic]

Not common but in some cases your car might request more current than your circuit breaker can handle. The car of course has no way of knowing what size circuit breaker you have. So this setting lets you manually limit the car’s power requests to a safe level.

Yup, a friend who has an EV from a different company uses their AMP limit a lot when traveling to their parent's place.

They are only able to use the 120v there but even worse, they have to use extension cables due to their plug layout. They found that they would keep tripping the breaker if they let the car do its thing, but they could make it work if they dropped it to 6 or maybe 8 if there isn't other things running on the same circuit.

 

[Oscar]

Hi guys,

brand new Recharge owner here. I am loving the car but dang, those problems came out fast! Only 2 days in I started experiencing the dreaded LTE/GPS thing with all that comes with it. One day later I experienced the relief that comes with it fixing itself overnight. But now it’s back with a vengeance.

I have read most of the threads on here (I can’t thank you guys enough for the top notch, well written information).

The 2 times it happened to me, the car had been in heavy rain. So my very first question is, is there a possible link with the shark fin antenna seal (or any other parts of the car) leaking? Was that debunked since the C40 seems to exhibit the same behavior? Visually my antenna looks fine, and I really don’t want to have chunks of the car replaced if not absolutely necessary.

Second question: There seems to be a tendency for the car to act weird in the first weeks of ownership and then magically getting back to normal and staying there. I would love to hear from you guys who experienced that. I’m absolutely willing to live through a rough patch without taking the car back to the dealer for “repairs” where they’re in the dark as much as I am. So yeah, would you guys recommend that I wait a bit and live with the car, see how the situation evolves?

Last question, those of you who have been driving the Recharge since last year, how was your general ownership experience with it? I am absolutely loving the driving part of thing so far, but the software instability scares me a little.

And no matter how things turn out with the car, still glad to be here!

Software instability …. Yes! Also unpredictability. My first car was replaced due to major reliability charging issues. Later, 22 volt battery and emergency battery failures concomitant with inability to open car. XC40 was dead in spite of having 60% charge. Now I am having an annoying high frequency vibration in both driver and front passenger floor???? Totally unexpected and most prevalent at 45 to 65 MPH. No, it is not the tires! Wheels were balanced. Anyone knows what is going on here? Please advise. I agree with some of Forum members that the techs at Volvo are not well trained in this new technology. We seem to be more aware of the issues. Yes, I enjoy the power torque and the pleasant driving experience as long as the car is stable. However, one issue after the other is concerning at least.

 

[DcinBC]

Software instability …. Yes! Also unpredictability. My first car was replaced due to major reliability charging issues. Later, 22 volt battery and emergency battery failures concomitant with inability to open car. XC40 was dead in spite of having 60% charge. Now I am having an annoying high frequency vibration in both driver and front passenger floor???? Totally unexpected and most prevalent at 45 to 65 MPH. No, it is not the tires! Wheels were balanced. Anyone knows what is going on here? Please advise. I agree with some of Forum members that the techs at Volvo are not well trained in this new technology. We seem to be more aware of the issues. Yes, I enjoy the power torque and the pleasant driving experience as long as the car is stable. However, one issue after the other is concerning at least.

Sounds like that should be reported back to Volvo. High frequency suggests an imbalance in the front drive train, possibly the motor or gearing, as opposed to the vibration you get from a tire rotating at hundreds of rpm. Are you confident in your local dealer. Is there another one you could talk to?