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My ChargePoint arrived in the mail yesterday (7/26/2021). Looking forward to getting it installed which should be by the end of the week. The slow Level 1 charging is starting to become a bit of a negative, so I’m excited to be able to charge it to 90% faster. I want to primarily charge at home.

I did get two electric bills since purchasing the car, and even though I have solar panels, I was surprised at how much the increase was since I haven’t been charging it every night. My bill was over double what it usually is. 😕 How has everyone else’s electric bills been?
The EPA has done this work for you. The car is rated at 79 MPGe.
Determine the cost of a gallon of gas. If it is currently about 4 dollars per gallon, the electric cost of going 79 miles will be about 4 gallons.

This is not an exact calculation as there are many variable in arriving at this calculation. It doesn't include different gas and electric pricing variable,. But is is an easy number to obtain. It is based on national averages.

Other than that, go to your electric bill and find out the cost per kilowatt hour. Then, how many miles you drive and the average kilowatt usage.. .

Since EV charging demands a high electric flow, your solar setup may not equipped for full solar charging, thus the added costs.

Without knowing your typical bill, double the cost is an unknown amount.
 

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The EPA has done this work for you. The car is rated at 79 MPGe.
Determine the cost of a gallon of gas. If it is currently about 4 dollars per gallon, the electric cost of going 79 miles will be about 4 gallons.

This is not an exact calculation as there are many variable in arriving at this calculation. It doesn't include different gas and electric pricing variable,. But is is an easy number to obtain. It is based on national averages.

Other than that, go to your electric bill and find out the cost per kilowatt hour. Then, how many miles you drive and the average kilowatt usage.. .

Since EV charging demands a high electric flow, your solar setup may not equipped for full solar charging, thus the added costs.

Without knowing your typical bill, double the cost is an unknown amount.
An error in the post and I can't figure out how to edit a post.

The cost of driving 79 e miles is currently about four dollars.
 

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The EPA has done this work for you. The car is rated at 79 MPGe.
Determine the cost of a gallon of gas. If it is currently about 4 dollars per gallon, the electric cost of going 79 miles will be about 4 gallons.

This is not an exact calculation as there are many variable in arriving at this calculation. It doesn't include different gas and electric pricing variable,. But is is an easy number to obtain. It is based on national averages.

Other than that, go to your electric bill and find out the cost per kilowatt hour. Then, how many miles you drive and the average kilowatt usage.. .

Since EV charging demands a high electric flow, your solar setup may not equipped for full solar charging, thus the added costs.

Without knowing your typical bill, double the cost is an unknown amount.
EPA numbers are why YMMV exists, they are under specific test conditions. I look at how much power costs me and the the efficiency of the car on how I drive and add in the 3-5% power lost during charging. There are many more variables with EV than gas cars. The price of gas at any given time is a reasonable constant. With power, various utility companies offer discounts depending on when you charge. In my case I have spent maybe $8-10 to drive 980 miles so I am running about $0.011 per mile vs. her $0.147 per mile cost just for fuel.

Since my wife has a 21 XC40 T5 and her overall average is 23MPG and using around $3.39 for Premium here in Atlanta gets me $144 to cover 980 miles in her car to my $10.

If we take the liberty of some rounding and say I save about $130 per 1K miles which is $1300 per 10K miles saved. Once I factor in my $7500 credit and my comparably equipped car cost about a net premium of around $4K over hers it will take me just over 3 years (if we drive about 10K a year) for the P8 to be more economical than the T5.

Of course the numbers do not take into account the personal feeling that the P8 rides more luxurious (to me) than a T5 as well as the fact it is quieter. It also does not include that over those 3 years the T5 will likely have 3-4 oil changes where the EV will not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Because of a disagreement with my HOA my solar/EVSE install has been delayed.

As a result home charging is happening with a 120 outlet and not only at super off peak time. Because of the way electricity is priced in San Diego we saw bills that we more than doubled when school was in session (42 miles each way) both on the conventional tiered pricing and on the EV TOU rate.

I computed that with 100 miles per day 5 days per week the P8 would use 2/3 additional electricity in my household. Based on the speed is being driven I may have underestimated.

I designed by solar to net my bills out to 0. This was difficult because solar companies want to build your system off your current bill.

Edit: clarity on consumption relative to household
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I created a spreadsheet to show cost of driving on different San Diego rate plans for my coworkers (Model Y, Taycan) who didn't know about EV rates.

The efficiency numbers are from the EPA and a median ICE is added. Feel free to make a copy and sub in your own rates.

 

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Once you install the ChargePoint Home Flex and connect it to the app, you will see how much you are paying specifically to charge your P8.
No experience with ChargePoint, by my Wallbox app I configure what my electric rates are and it calculate the total cost per charge and then I can report on a given period. I would think ChargePoint has similar features.

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you select your electricity provider and the name of your rate schedule from a list,
I suspected that it was supposed to do that. But, even though the app showed a list of plans offered by my power company (NV Energy in Las Vegas), no matter what plan I select, I'm still forced to manually enter my rate (approx 0.12 per KWH). I'm sure it's an issue with the power company not providing the app with the data needed to autofill the rate.
 

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One thing that's kind of cool about the Chargepoint - during setup with the phone app, you select your electricity provider and the name of your rate schedule from a list, and your electricity rate schedule is automatically loaded and used to determine charging costs.

Now that is cool. If they had power sharing I would have kept mine.
 
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Power sharing is when you have 2 EVs and 1 circuit to power 2 EVSEs. The 2 EVSEs can talk to each other and determine how much demand each needs and they balance the load out so that combined they do not exceed the circuit rating. So if I have a single 60am breaker (max 48 amps) and hook up 2 EVs at same time to 2 EVSEs on it they will both charge, but at reduced AMPS so that combined they will not go over 48 amps. As one stops charging the draw on the other can increase up to 48 amps. The problem with power sharing is it is specific to the EVSE brand so you would need 2 EVSEs of same brand/model.

That said when we get a second EV we will have that as an option or just rotate the garage spots depending on who needs to charge on a given day. I do think I will add a second EVSE at that time to keep it easier. The thought of adding a second 40 or 48amp EVSE on its own circuit scares me. I have 150amp panel, and the though that 2 EVSEs may draw 50%+ of the panel loads makes me nervous as the house is from 1984 and the main service line is aluminum.

I put a 200amp capable panel in, but when I went to get the service upgraded this year the county would not approve it unless I moved my panel as code has changed so much. Moving the panel would have cost me $10K+ clearly not worth it for that little buffer in amps.


Watch the insideevs YouTube channel he reviews most of the main stream EVSEs.
 

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2021 XC40 P8 - Bursting Blue
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One thing that's kind of cool about the Chargepoint - during setup with the phone app, you select your electricity provider and the name of your rate schedule from a list, and your electricity rate schedule is automatically loaded and used to determine charging costs.
It did semi-correctly this for Sacramento (SMUD), although it did not account for a discount we get (1.5c/kWh between midnight & 6AM) for registering the car with SMUD, so I just put in the rate. When we go off summer rates, I'll adjust it again.
 

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FYI. For those that purchased a ‘22 model, you don’t qualify for the ChargePoint credit.
Long story short, my dealer sent the application for my $500 credit. 3 weeks or so pass and I don’t hear anything. Dealer said to talk to ChargePoint, ChargePoint doesn’t have anything on record and asks to contact Volvo’s 800 line. Volvo confirms I didn’t hear anything because the ‘22 models don’t qualify, we only qualify for the EA deal.
 

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FYI. For those that purchased a ‘22 model, you don’t qualify for the ChargePoint credit.
Long story short, my dealer sent the application for my $500 credit. 3 weeks or so pass and I don’t hear anything. Dealer said to talk to ChargePoint, ChargePoint doesn’t have anything on record and asks to contact Volvo’s 800 line. Volvo confirms I didn’t hear anything because the ‘22 models don’t qualify, we only qualify for the EA deal.
yep, this is what my dealer circled back and told me as well. only EA - I received my EA number to sign up for the credit about 2 weeks ago.
 

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I got mine via Volvo not dealership. As dealership was a joke and kept loosing it. Back through thread there should be directions on where to write to then you will get it in days.
 
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